I
was in Northern Japan on 3/11/11, the day of the Great Northeast Japan
Earthquake. It has gotten easier for me
to talk about it since then, because I have told the story so many times, and
have been able to come to terms with my experiences, and with the consequences
of the earthquake that I did not experience firsthand. I do not intend to write about radiation and
nuclear energy specifically, because enough people continue to write about that
topic, and they do not wait for the anniversary to do so. I will use my soapbox to write about the rest
of Tohoku, where is lived and worked for a year, and came to appreciate and
love. I will tell you about Tohoku,
because this is the story of the earthquake that is neglected these days.
Tohoku is a backwater sparsely
populated by Japanese standards and with a more depressed economy than the rest
of the country. Much of Tohoku is rural,
and suffering from rural flight, as members of my generation and younger leave
the countryside in search of better opportunities in the big city, often Tokyo. 3/11 just made all of these problems
worse. The earthquake accelerated rural
flight out of Tohoku, because many displaced people have not returned to the
region. People displaced from the
Fukushima exclusion zone talk about how they would like to go back, but many
people who lived on the northeast coast, where the tsunami struck, are not
going back and do not act like they intend to return. A lot of families and individuals that
survived the waves and tremors left Tohoku behind in search of greener
pastures. Without people to build for,
much of the infrastructure Tohoku lost will not be replaced. Dwindling population means that there is no
reason to spend money rebuilding lost houses, harbors, rails and buildings.
Two stories that are of special interest
to me have been the fates of Kinkasan and the Shotaro Ishinomori Manga Museum
in Ishinomaki City, Miyagi Prefecture.
Kinkasan is an island off Miyagi Prefecture with a shrine to Daikokuten,
one of the gods of good fortune. The
shrine was first built in the eighth century with money from goldmines in the
region, and rebuilt in late nineteenth century when it caught fire. It is said that if you visit the
shrine on Kinkasan three years in a row, you will be blessed with riches. I only visited once, for the island’s summer
festival. Reports about the fate of
Kinkasan have been hard to come by. I
have managed to piece together a small picture: the island was struck by the
waves, and some buildings were damaged, but the shrine and inn were not among
them. Besides the shrine, Kinkasan has a lodge for tourists, a souvenir shop and restaurant (all owned and operated by the shrine). I hope that that will be enough to
bring tourists back to Kinkasan for its festivals.
the shrine hall
However, to get there, one must go through
Ishinomaki or Onagawa on the mainland, and both cities were hit hard by the
tsunami. I passed through Onagawa on my
way to Kinkasan in August, 2010. August
is festival time in Tohoku and I went to see the Dragon Dance on Kinkasan, but
I lingered in Onagawa for their Harbor Festival. I do not know how badly that town was damaged
on 3/11, but I fear any tourist catching the ferry there is in for a less
inviting sight than I got. Onagawa was a
small town, but they threw a lively festival with lots of food, games, music
and a parade of sailboats.
Ishinomaki, a much larger city, lies just
south of Onagawa. It is famous as the
birthplace of Ishinomori Shotaro, a TV producer and cartoonist who created
Kamen Rider, Super Sentai, Cyborg 009 and other popular anime and TV
works. Nowadays the town hosts a cute
museum dedicated to Ishinomori’s work.
The Manga Museum was hit by the waves, but stayed standing and has been
repaired and reopened. In August 2010,
Ishinomaki was not exactly a bustling town, or lively, but the wharfs and
streets were lined with houses and open businesses. In the days after the earthquake, I heard
rumors that the city lost two-thirds of its population. Thankfully it was just that—rumors. In
reality, 3,097 people were confirmed dead with 2,000 reported missing, and
29,000 people left homeless, out of a total population of approximately 100,000
people. The town had life. In contrast, I lived in a farming village
where half of the buildings on main street were vacant. I have not been to Ishinomaki since August
2010, but what I have heard makes me quaver to consider it. The blogger behind Life to Reset reported in October2012 that Ishinomaki has been rebuilding, but half of the buildings she saw
were abandoned. Worse yet, the Miyagi
Tourism Board reports that train service into Ishinomaki has not been restored
making it harder for tourists to reach the town.
Travel to Tohoku can be interesting and fun, but off the beaten path for Western tourists. I spent a year living in the area, and grew to love it as much as I had loved the area around Kyoto, where I first lived in Japan as a student (and where most of the Western tourists find themselves). Go in August for festival season and enjoy the party, because small town festivals tend to be less crowded than those in big cities, but no less lively and interesting.
Travel to Tohoku can be interesting and fun, but off the beaten path for Western tourists. I spent a year living in the area, and grew to love it as much as I had loved the area around Kyoto, where I first lived in Japan as a student (and where most of the Western tourists find themselves). Go in August for festival season and enjoy the party, because small town festivals tend to be less crowded than those in big cities, but no less lively and interesting.
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